Dalmatia Diamantina 
gaze to the east was so I wanted to pin it down and even if this is just west of the East Adriatic sleeves, across the border next door, Croatia is still a trip oltresponda, earth filtered by language, like saying history nearby Yet in the midst flows the sea.
Holiday time is what it is, rent forced in August, give or take and take and then leave, which left all is lost.
While the Beijing Olympic Games take their leave from the car with two suspects of gold for a shooting discipline and combat grecoromanotiburtina in that Pescara entrust the protection of my car in a parking lot used by the Navy unusually free parking at the local and temporary duty paid once proof of identity at the checkpoint-chatter, disconnect the ticket on the route to the island of Hvar, the first landing of a cheap vacation, twelve days and twelve nights of flip-flops in the scent of the Mediterranean.
Hvar, the grandson of the Serenissima.
The beauty of the fast ferry is that you have not already finished the paper and you get the berth, and already on the bus for the island's capital. With our beautiful uniform suitcase attract tourists now circumspection local tenants: a slender villager shows us your accommodation interchangeably with the euro and the tourists because there is a bathroom, kitchen and parquet on the floor, for our own equivalent of 42 euros that would then 21 to head, shake hands and validate the pact. Housing prices and convenience for all of this content will be sub-letting, including towels and clean look.
Hvar offers just the visual impact and historic signs predominant characteristic: a long rectangular square entirely paved with polished slabs and wide, with a church steeple well-placed source on the short side of the marina opposite a row of cafes and along the sides.
Balza eye cleaning and squaring the stone and the feeling of being in a sea of \u200b\u200bAbruzzo. Throughout the trip will continue with comparisons Greece I know best, but the difference over the area is unpredictable: there are no white houses and blue domes, but polished stone, cut, segmented and smattoncinata.
Hvar, like all the Dalmatian islands, as a legacy and the legacy of centuries-old Venetian import in civil and architectural importance is considerable: stony streets, churches smooth, the arsenal with the beautiful arched doorway at the same time functional and aesthetic, the buildings and balconies infinestrati following homogeneous set of specifications, arched loggias, mullioned windows and all that pavement on which to glide.
Other impact primal feelings, they speak Italian rather than Ponza, is calling for immigration quota for indigenous tourism, the commercial contract of Hvar tourism involving all overlooking the transit roads, but the interplay of walk and need intensive trade turistifilo a proportion remains within the limits of space preservation.
view of the beautiful central square, face the side streets, showing off the first shots analog digital vicolame the Dalmatian.
As doves from the desire of esplorazion calls, naturaliter impel us toward the fortress overlooking the town of Hvar, the rest of the huge civil service protection to the most serene of the Turkmen territory, but also by the certainty prison & ; peremptory sentence, without inspirations beccariana.In effects, affecting the excellent maintenance over the expected aerial view of the landscape, with and without the aid of a telescope eye.
as Hvar island contains a small port at sea level, where fishing boats lie Pescarolo, boats minimal tissue but also ships cabin, condo and Yott Velona plurialberati, probably belonging to the pharaohs revived flags & tax free or at least to the Russians.
At overcomes the big hotels around the island in a very Colossal style, embroidered with arabesque swimming near the rocks on the sea, complete with a lounge corner and Lady radiated sound background of the sunset, in languor of Youth Dance & appetizers.
Rest of the sixteenth century Venetian & more or less sevenths are the presence of so many convents, Dominicans and Franciscans in the first place. A splendid cloister is the backdrop to the concerts of serotypes classical music, as we Chigi Academy in Siena.
And because as in any way, some players turn out to dinner, we discover at once a travel companion: the squid, mon calamour! The insight was later confirmed by the facts, it will be during the holidays, meat consumption will be drastically sacrificed in honor of the fresh local fish, including squid perlappunto stands out, both in the form of fried, light honorably, in either the grid. He, the squid Croatian, stands to be smaller and more of our savory, without sauces, simple & sincere, almost nude. Alongside this Man's best friend, mussels, local variation in "the buzara", or with garlic, parsley and chopped tomatoes. Tables al fresco in the beautiful sea of \u200b\u200bMarinero, for a couple of nights we deepen the insight of the basic food Dalmatian.
filosogastriche Some insights pervade the papillae brain. Developed the theory of the physical momentum of the Croatian population by virtue of the grid. I decide to open a restaurant of mind, devoted solely to spirits of the sea, with simple tastes, angular, essential, or basic salt, butter and anchovies & breakfast of herring and Marsala with Sicilian fishermen. My personal war of the industry food sucks sap every now and then assimilated. I transcend digesting.
And after dinner, I just want to sleep at night and keep aggiodurmì.
The days are characterized by the discovery of the archipelago frontestante: small island view, if you come on board flights taxi boat, then the possibility to search on their own the petrosal sofas on which to plant mats or umbrellas . Croatia stands out in the rock, sometimes relieved by pebble beaches & sassoloni, almost always with the addition of coastline curls blacks who suggest the acumen to take a bath with the heel sandals or similar safeguards. Intense around pine grows green & smell chlorophyll, reaching up to make a shadow on the sea and then dissolved in an emerald green or blue Diamantina.
Nature appears to me for what it is, fruitfully, Mediterranean, olives & vines, fields of lavender bags sold in kiosks made of wood and ripe figs on the trees.
On days devoted to distilling the brown arms and to splash tonic water thickness clear & transparent, rediscover the pleasure of reading. Whole hours devoted to books, printed with the ink to lighten the eyes bright and lexical development no hurry to be able to boast of their courage. "The part of the other", by E. Schmitt: six hundred pages on what would have been slaidìndoors History if Hitler had been admitted to the Academy of Fine Arts, rather than ... the rest is history and chills on the back.
way between the island view, shines Palmizana (Parmesan or, vulgarly, complete with evocative reflection of the glory attached eggplant, as the inevitable summons kicked after the hammer on the kneecap), and Jarolim Stiplanka. The only notation of folklore, there is a tendency due to invasive pummarola Connection From Portici, Castellammare, Piedigrotta and Towers the Greek / Annunziata, in massive colonization of the island and neighboring appliances, so that echoes some occasional news of the Journal of Sport on the transfer market of Naples, right from the heart of tranquility of the bay, and some with various MarònneMie ruspanza scream from the courtyard. Determine the ratio: for every ten appearances on the island, two are Croats, International and another seven are Italians, four of Naples, two Romans and the rest of the peninsula.
Stiplanka of the island, the people ashore in shorts and dark glasses, looking for the local fashion-oriented, uniquely stelletta by guides such as routard lonelyplanet: the loungissimo and a little 'chill Carpe Diem, a kind of etnobar dotted with cushions & curtains, wood carvings and divaneggiamenti Fiera del Levante enplenair-sea view and flattery Mojito more intuitive for everyone. M'inibisco and I do not even have a coffee.
In the days to follow the approach began to emerge with the Croats, so far made up of silences ineloquenti in a sort of no do not do ut des Campania so that Centanni, I with my girl you are with your girl salutam'a and Soret. Not exactly a 'cultural osmosis or civic, in fact.
Probably because of that that eating grilled s'accennava People's genetic or harshness, Croats and Croatian are aesthetically uniform: two-dimensional and flat, planed and covered on average heights nell'addominale mannequin, looks like the cold or iced smooth muerte. Wherever a glimpse nationalism checkered red and white flags and puff, of which these seem to Croatian & Croatian auctions.
Korcula, sea, art & rustic.
After four days in that beautiful drawing room which is Hvar, Korcula on hijacked, thanks to steep PreSAP readings exploratory question of the island where he was born (or at least had a second home) Marko Polo - k is the velleity Croatian.
Accommodation is once again worthy, bathroom floors and always, always cadacranio twenty Euros per night, twenty meters from the cathedral and as many from the sea, in the middle of a lane in the City Court. In addition, as there is television, the Olympics reappear, at least in moments of exchange or in the pre-bedtime. The Croatian TV insists on two events: taekwondo, where a local Martina has worked for an honorable bronze, but especially the high jump where the jumper Blanka Vlasic, Croatian spearhead of the expedition, is favored for gold. In an afternoon of back from the beach, before showering, Blanka gain access to the final arching dissolved more than two meters, beautiful eyes and frozen in the memory of a previous life as a sole, nimble feet and sticks, cronomillimetrati movements, such as regular Pythagorean hypotenuse.
Korcula island is culturally pretentious: Grans surrounded by ramparts made of white, turreted and divided into regular squares of white stone, has a plant in a herringbone pattern, where you depart from the main square of streets converging on a file oval promenade, to enclose the sides citizens, who immediately walk.
Loggiati Moorish, steps in a semicircle, a city gate all respect, under the banner of the Lion of Venice, but also a beautiful cathedral with a rose important - Abbey Fossanova on my mind - and worked with a portal winks aesthetic impression of some effect.
A Korcula Italian presence is a bit 'less pronounced, the proportion Italy / restodelmondo increased from seven in ten to five, on the other hand Korcula, as then we will hear many voices, including local, make rude to the fucking tourist who comes to break the balls, a trait fundamental. In restaurants, travel agencies, with waiters or drivers and minibus taxi boat, the old story is always a light at times irritated going.
I try to give me an explanation: contrary to stereotypes, the tips of rudeness comes mainly from younger people, who in the early 90s, during the war, Serbo-Croatian, had children and perhaps this has an influence on the vision the rest of the world.
Towards evening, laced in the lodges you can hear the singing of a gospel performance folkolirico kindly offered to passers-by proloco local.
make friends with a simple fillet of fish in white wine sauce with mackerel proud bearer of an onion, with lattarini fried and with the loving mullet rosargentate that only if we think I already feel in the depths ...
The artistic ambition is realized in the many art galleries, scenic or naive, that are followed to establish the indigenous pictorial ambitions. Other boutique manufacturing facilities in sequence of coral and traditional silver filigree, antique pendants and starfish.
Taxi Boat Here too the lead for a few euro on the islands in the face of rudeness. Among these, Badija, where we land a normal sunny morning and surprise surprire, free to the island there are three deer ciaociao very friendly while we find a magic mirror reflections marine served with genuine nature as pine needles and silence and mushrooms, good food, good for drying ... but we are in August and at Christmas. We go into the water as you descend the stairs of Trinita dei Monti in the night parade and shivered with pleasure while his limbs melt Outreach freestyle Sea of \u200b\u200btransparency.
All too good. And in fact Badija soon reveals the other face of nature: legions of horseflies war declare war on tourism and do not just flit around from time to time to wet our customs, but you eat right, filled with mutilated in Denton. I try to escape by taxi boat in Mosquito's Island, but the taxi boat is gone, and after an hour, just allay these biblical fury, I establish a compromise unbalanced resistance.
Evenings in Korcula is also characterized by the beautiful sunsets that seen at a distance from the harbor skyline seem to bring an aureole spiccante torch as a comet above the manger.
The high jump: Dubrovnik
Leaving Korcula on board the minibus that there is more rude, pointing upwards: Dubrovnik, heart that has used to define the route of Travel, after all primary interest to hear about it.
The impact is Lunchtime in a fire.
The plan of the city is clear after ten steps: Dubrovnik is made to V: a long & wide road performance, the so-called Stradun, overlooking the city at the top down, while in arriving and departing around invicolate stairs, step long but inexorable. Dubrovnik is made to scale, some people especially those who go down the halls. Around the walls, historic fortifications and centuries-old, intact & compact.
people. A lot of people. Too many people. Are people too, occasionally I feel almost too much.
taking accommodation in a beautiful apartment trocar on top of a staircase and away you go. Unfortunately
flow smoothly and half of the lanes are too sold out the soul of business.
Paninonoteche, pizza, coffee, spaghetti they call Toni and Little Italy, offers to take three fish scampi and pay for two, a food debauch lurking a bit 'everywhere.
Farther intercept some guides and boy scouts who complain to their tourist boom did not follow proper planning, the cruise come to blows in the port of three at a time pouring condominium condominiums & Tourism hit & run away, that while the first every building occurred following a rule for the homogeneity of the assembled architecture today builds each night, loft and basically by their dicks, economically designed.
Ciòddetto, everything else is beautiful calligraphy.
Stradun opens on the bottom with a beautiful porch, churches vain because of rosettes & mosaics, stained glass and white marble and then the Venetian fortress, two km walk on the walls, the belvedere overlooking the sea, the oldest pharmacy in Europe, with its cloister solar fountains, the Jewish ghetto and the steep stone ... and as we all know, or pretend that they know, with the signs of bombs, including one in plain sight underneath the hole that brought the historic pharmacy. A statement appesalmuro municipal map shows passers roof bombarded by Serb Montenegrins in 1992: At least sixty percent, recognizable by the red brick new new, as it appears from the walls.
Today, everything rebuilt, because of race integral with the restoration of this Viceregina Adriatic, Venice permitting.
At sunset, the city is crossed by heralds in period costume who draws near to the city gates halberds.
At night meeting in a TV reportage Blanka Vlasic of mangy workout: it is already the gold rush.
The sea of \u200b\u200bDubrovnik, perhaps because outside the walls, is less protected from invasion: the beach in particular is a carpet of cigarette despite the deep blue.
We pass around the circumnavigation of the city with the calmness of one who has played the first round, and that people will be decreased to the eye is happy with his hand, I feel like a German tourist in Florence : I did not expect and I repeat I did not expect (cited). Sitting under the balcony, I look Stradun and I'm happy.
frames the sensations with a wonderful grilled sea bream and octopus sincere as the primal pleasure of being on vacation.
It's almost time to sleep, but Blanka is awaiting his final jump. Fair and technical jumps with ease all aseptic measures without an error. Detach the latest competitors as we enter the last scaccian the gadflies and jump competition with a Belgian firm that wears glasses and seems Henry Potter. Blanka focuses coach nods as if to calm him for his unnecessary advice es'inarca sole with his cold eyes el'addominale plate. And yet ... the bar has any draft insolent and unpredictably is down. Henry Potter was not expecting, and repeats did not expect, see his book of tricks ... and makes his own record. He came down to thin and lanky, without bar fight. He rolls Blanka, focuses, goes over a sequence of mind and try again, try again ... but it will be two more lucky. E 'silver, silver and coldly with her throughout Croatia pays a vice of arrogance, at least to my eyes.
Early in the morning after two days off again, with a wonderful surprise in the sense of sight: at seven in the morning Stradun is empty, there are none, you see the beginning and end and it is all a glitter dawn.
Stari Grad, a town apart.
Back on the island of Hvar for the last two days in place of the restart, but this time we are decentralized, and we stop to Stari Grad, a village fisherman sturistico if not, at least relieved from the crowd. Accommodation for a modest price from a lady who seems so Aunt who is from Bosnia.
Stari Grad was a surprise. Like most local titles so far, retain rows of stone houses, cobbled pavements and squares of black & white Cartier Bresson, opening on a bay Apprenticeship deeply into the sea, where the eight steals the show in the evening sunset in a cannelloni of blue ripped up orange and red as the sun disappears addormì say I'm leaving.
And without trumpeting the formularies for the travel scholarship but only for the eyes of those who enter a couple of churches are appreciated. Beside them, the small local humanist Petar Nonmiricordovic Castle, with the botanical garden and the pool for redfish. Peter, an admirer of Italian culture, placed at the disposal of the local population's estate, but also did something more: he commissioned an Tintoretto deposition that can be seen in the Museum of the Franciscan monastery - and you seemed - as if it were an unpredictable fugitive the Louvre, as if we were in nicchied'arte of Umbria or Tuscany, but it is not and we're in a Dalmatian fishing village of three thousand souls. The beautiful place, let it be even more clear cutting of the body of Christ on the white canvas.
Like a small cask, Starigrad also keeps its good wine, an aromatic wine reminiscent of Greek Retsina and accompanying further culinary discoveries.
restaurant in my mind, I can not do without the carpaccio of tuna and capers tasted in Stari Grad. I allow myself some sophistry and appreciate the fried anchovies in tartar sauce, but even more the fruit salad with lavender and take note a simple but sweet Mediterranean: roasted figs with honey. And I am happy once again.
A Starigrad do the last sun-bathing and sea.
The coast here is also accompanied by pine trees on the beach and ends with a concrete platform to facilitate entry into the water, as is often the case in Croatia. Who said so, the concrete platform also seems ugly, but the reality is quite different in that the invasiveness is minimal and usability comforting. Around many a legend, a few small house located just inland and some public dressing proloco kindly offered by local and Italian that I am no longer accustomed to seeing convenience of free access, it is almost moved.
There is something in the Adriatic resort of Starigrad reminiscent of the coexistence of freedom, simplicity and nature that could be in 1979 in San Benedetto del Tronto or Vieste on the Gargano.
I read a few pages of "The Chronicles of Travnik" by Ivo Andric, literary pretensions that I could never pull the obscurantist routine on weekdays and ... cottimizzati
... and that's it, back to return the machine in Pescara, on the other side of the Adriatic.
But that's okay so. I breathed fresh air.
smelled of jasmine and danced on sea for me were without a penny, I really c'amavamo and you was on a television, the greatest dreams of me. Diamantina under the dark sky like you I loved you, I kissed her, as thou hast loved me, your eyes like fires ignited in me the love that donaste me. a job after school, you could not wish for but more is changed, time flies, you wanted to fly more and your name Diamantina in love for the game changed. Diamantina under the dark sky like you I loved you, I kissed her, as thou hast loved me, your eyes lit up like fireworks I love that in donaste me. E the blue Mediterranean in the day said that of you from your modern world, you'll see you back here your sea of jasmine, the garden that fall in love. Diamantina under the dark sky like you I loved you, I kissed her, as thou hast loved me, your eyes as fires lit in me the love that donaste me.
(Diamantina, inconceivably Alberto Camerini)
